Aberdovey

“The course that my soul loves best of all the courses in the world”, wrote celebrated golf writer Bernard Darwin of Aberdovey.

And as I walked to the top of the ridge on the third hole, there was a chance that it would also remain in my heart forever.

My tee shot on the blind par-three had arched towards the slither of the flag we could see, and my partner was gleeful in his belief that I could have hit my first hole-in-one.

In fact, it rested just a scorecard width away from the cup, and we will never know how close it came.

We played Aberdovey on a glorious spring day, and the welcome was among the most heartwarming I have encountered.

In the pro's shop, we were told of the course's various quirks (a couple of the fairways are shared, and there are specific rights of way), and then I chatted to a club stalwart about its fascinating history.

We indulged in breakfast in the impressive clubhouse and were treated to Denny The Barman's talents. According to him, he has "a unique gift"—he can remember the precise details of every Newcastle United Premier League match.

I tested him with a few I knew from my time supporting Coventry City, and he was as good as his word.

Then, after a few chips and putts on the practice area, it was out to the links, which turned out to be one of the most fun I have encountered in GB and Ireland.

Aberdovey's opening holes are set in dramatic dunes. The course then moves slightly inland to flatter holes before turning back to the grassy mounds again.

Its par 69 should fool nobody. While good scoring is possible, there is plenty of trouble to dismantle a round of those who go offline.

The wind is a key factor. Its strength and direction will have a significant impact on any round.

At 440 yards into the prevailing wind, the opening hole is one of the toughest in Great Britain and Ireland's top 100.

A shot towards the greenkeeper's hut on the left should keep the ball out of trouble before a long hit towards a green with sand on the right.

In common with many links, there is barely a flat lie at Aberdovey. Players need to allow for undulations on the fairways and be able to read the borrows on the greens.

Meanwhile, keeping the right lines is essential because the rough is raw and tricky.

The second is 100 yards shorter but weaves through the dunes, so it is imperative that the ball doesn't wander away from the short grass.

I began steadily and fired my round up with my assault on the third and that near-ace moment.

However, momentum was hard to find over the next few holes that were flatter but more bunker-strewn.

The sixth tee is next to the railway line that runs along the picturesque River Dyfi estuary that gives Aberdovey its Welsh name, Aberdyfi.

I followed the stroke saver's instruction to place the ball down the left of the par-four, avoiding the thick rough and out-of-bounds down the right.

However, I was frustrated by a wide long iron approach that left me a pitch over a greenside bunker which I flunked.

Indeed, my round seemed to be dissolving until the lovely par-three ninth when I floated my tee shot over the bunkers that protect the green.

Unfortunately, the ball rolled to the rear of the putting surface but delight ensued with a 30ft-putt that found the back of the cup for a birdie.

Mystery followed at the par-four tenth where the ball needs to split bunkers on either side of the fairway.

With the breeze I struck a decent drive, while my playing partner made his cleanest strike of the day and seemed destined to land 30 yards further down the fairway.

However, it could not be found until we saw a white spec 80 yards back from where we presumed it to be. Had a bird picked it up and dropped it? We will never know.

The 12th is Aberdovey's stand-out hole - a fabulous par-three to a perched green alongside the beach.

It is not a long, but the run-off to the left is extreme, and the rough leading up to the target is intimidating.

I dreamed of a third two as a nine-iron strike flew over the hill, towards the flag. The ball was about ten feet behind the hole but my birdie putt was too tentative.

At this stage, my hopes were high of a really decent score, and I became further emboldened when my second shot to the par-five 13th was only 40 yards from the green.

However, I botched my chip into the bunker, took three to get out and ended with a chastening eight. Meanwhile, my playing partner notched an admirable birdie.

Thankfully, this was an isolated mess-up, and the remaining holes of Aberdovey's inward nine inspired a comeback.

Among its highlights was the driveable 16th which follows the curve of the railway track. Indeed, those who wander left off the tee could see their ball go over the boundary onto the line.

I took a line down the right, avoided pesky sand traps, and the ball arrived off the front of the green.

But there remained a bank to negotiate and I overstruck into tangly stuff to the rear, leaving a treacherous chip onto a heavily sloping putting surface.

The pro's tip on the Aberdovey course guide is "finish strong on one of Welsh golf’s finest closing holes".

I almost followed it to the letter because I hit a precise drive down the right side, avoiding the penalty areas to the left.

My second shot, with the breeze found the green's front edge and I needed to nail a 40ft birdie to claim 36 Stableford points.

Alas, my best putt of the day ran around the hole when it had seemed it would drop.

Nevertheless, this had been a day of many highlights and if I get the chance, I will definitely return to Aberdovey.